Guinea (yes, again!): Roum Beach

Some mornings, I wake up here so happy and at peace. I think of the generosity of many that I've met here, the incremental progress of my research, and the fun that I have with my friends whether we're eating at my favorite Cameroonian restaurant or hitting the town. In those moments, I can't help but hold up a glass of wine, preferably while in my PJs, and smile.

The best meal in Conkary, hands down. Milo Melo's.

Some mornings, I wake up grumpy as all (you know what). I mean, just angry that 12 pm means 1:30 pm to someone I have a meeting with, that "a plan" feels half-hazard and last-minute, that the patrons (bosses) act like they're too important to give you the time of day even though you're both at the same event doing the same thing, that nothing is going the way I would have organized it. Argh!

In those moments, I journal and I reflect, recalling the times that make my smile. I started a list of the things I have loved about my time in Guinea, and I have to share what has been one of my most special experiences so far: the beach!

Catching a pirogue to take us to Roum, one of the nearby islands.
(We paid 300k GNF round-trip.)

Let the fun begin for our 30 minute boat ride...

The remains of a mountain that a company blew up to
start mining, and then left...

Made it! We brought a cooler of snacks, rented a
Cabana (right, 100k), and made ourselves comfortable!

Ahh, the beach! The view from our Cabana!

And what beach experience is complete with a photo shoot?

With some local guides, went for a hike up the side of a mountain.

Beautiful views at the top!

Clearly calls for another photo shoot!

On the way back down, ran into Obama,
a president that I already miss.

Our afternoon was filled with grilled seafood,
and freshly tapped palm wine. 

Some local Rastas sang to me and my friends.

 After more fun in the sun and a really nice beach nap, it was time to go back to Conakry.

Passed a shipwreck along the way, which apparently you can
see all of during low tide.

Pulling up next to the fishing docks as we reach shore.

The day trip to Roum Beach was le paradis!

Guinea (yes, again!): Cheers to 2017

2017 started out a little...well...slow. I woke up with a massive headache. There was a problem with every item I ordered for my New Year's Day brunch. And I was planning another research trip across the globe to Guinea, with no idea on where I would stay or how I would event get out of the airport! Sure, these were all minor problems in the context of life, but on the first day of what I decided would be a fabulous new year, they kind of sucked. 

Day 2 of the new year continued this trend, though I was determined to keep a positive attitude. I couldn’t sleep a wink on my disappointing United Airlines flight. The terrible food was topped only by the melted butter that spilled all over my favorite sweater. I was hungry and tired (a terrible combination for me). I mean really – seriously! – I exclaimed aloud as a looked to the ceiling of the airplane – Can’t I get a break?!

Just when I was ready to give up on the new year, I ran into a friend on my second flight to Guinea (one of the two Americans there that I know). It was unbelievably serendipitous - she was sitting in a cabin in front of mine but came on the flight late and had to look for storage in the back for her suitcase, "coincidentally" passing by my seat. We had great conversation and have stayed connected almost daily in my first week back abroad.

And, as soon as we got off the aircraft, another “miracle” occurred. I was telling my friend there would be no VIP treatment this time, and would you believe that my host from last summer who didn’t even know my flight schedule came to the airport to get me and arranged my housing again?

The past week-and-a-half have been fraught with these moments of extreme distress and frustration followed by unbelievable comfort and joy. A terrible cold/flu that kept me homebound during my first week back in Guinea was met with friends who passed by to check on me and even brought me soup! A failed start with my old research assistant was replaced with the hope of a new one in within 24 hours. And as a recent visit with one of my research participants from last June (and several members of her family) today revealed, my network here may not be huge, but it is quality.

I’ll probably still have an existential crisis tomorrow. I’ll probably worry endlessly and maybe even shed some tears over the mishaps that will inevitably come. But I’ll also refer to this blog post repeatedly to remind myself that there is a plan so much bigger than me that has already been put in place, and that it really is all going to be more than okay.

This is Take 1 Take 2 Take 3 of 2017, which promises to be the most fabulous year yet! It's the year of Fitness, Fashion, and Fun (my personal mantra for this year). It's the year of finishing my dissertation (pleasssse be the year of finishing my dissertation!). It's the year of blessings to be received and shared and enjoyed. 

2016 ended well with a little Mickey time...

...a little family time...

...and of course a fabulous NYE selfie!

Guinea: Stories of Early and Forced Marriage in Conakry

Young girl practices carrying a stuffed animal on her back,
the same way that women carry children on their back. 

I can count the number of times I’ve said "I love research" on one hand, but after eight weeks in Guinea, I'm proud to say: research can be such a powerful tool. It can be a systematic way of collecting stories, of learning about people’s experiences, of creating a platform to share the voices of many that often go unheard. 

Throughout my summer, I’ve been meeting with stakeholders from local NGOs, women's groups, and other members of the community to understand some of the problems that women in Guinea are facing, and they’ve shared a long list: female circumcision (also known as genital cutting/mutilation), divorce, lack of jobs, early marriage, and the list goes on. As I started my doctoral research on child marriage in an African context, I wanted to take a step back and challenge myself to be open, not only to look for an answer to the questions that I have but to seek out the questions I didn't even think to ask.

I interviewed one woman - let's call her Kadijah* -  who shared her current life hardships as a victim of what she called forced marriage. Though she was married at the age of 25, an age in Guinean culture, she shared, where she could no longer say she wasn't ready to marry, her family had made the arrangements. The marriage resulted in her postponing her university education - she was proud to share how she was able to complete it - but now, she is unemployed, as she could not find a job, and stays at home to raise her young children. Although she believes her husband could be a good partner, she experiences maltreatment from her live-in mother-in-law, which makes her current marital situation extremely difficult and discouraging. 

There was another woman - let's call her Mariama* - who was married off at the age of 16. Now, her story was one of great luck, as she described; her family arranged a marriage and more than two decades later, she considers it a success. She has several kids, all of whom are doing well, all of whom have had more opportunities than she has, and she had more than her mother. She’s happy in her marriage - describes her husband as a good man - and although, as I later learned, she is the second of two wives, her education, intellect, and courage have helped her secure, in her words, "a good marriage." 

These are just two snapshots of stories women have been generous enough to share with me, glimpses into parts of their lives that - many described - they'd never talked about before. Unfortunately, most of the stories so far have been more like Kadijah's, or, even worse, have been laced with stories of repeated verbal and physical abuse. Even just to think about the intimate details some have shared is heartbreaking, and yet, these are the experiences that these women, and hundreds like them, live every day. 

There have been two positive aspects that have emerged repeatedly in the first handful of interviews, which I believe are worth highlighting here. First, the women that I've interviewed thus far have looked at their children as their successes, regardless of the experiences of their marriages. They've shared that this is related to cultural norms and expectations: a young woman is supposed to marry and produce children. Many illustrated how their children's lives are somehow better than their own, whether they married at a later age, or had the opportunity to complete schooling regardless of gender. Second, the women I have interviewed thus far have shown a lot of strength. Only one woman cried briefly during her interview, despite the various horrific tales that left me and my assistant teary-eyed. A few have also become advocates, working for local organizations where they are able to help educate other women about their rights or health. 

I can't put into words what this experience has been like, starting to delve into this private space of thoughts and experiences of women in this community. And I can't explain how incredibly fortunate I feel that these women have adopted me into their lives, that they trust me to learn from their pasts and to share my interpretation of these messages along. And although my time in Guinea for this summer has ended, it has become increasingly clear that my relationship with this country, and with some of the incredible women I've been fortunate to meet here, is only just beginning.

*Names have been changed to protect the identity of the women who generously volunteered their time to participate in multiple interviews. I am truly grateful. 

Guinea: "Get Your Hair Did" - Conakry Style!

Over the last couple of weeks, I’ve spent a lot of time speaking with women to understand their experiences and how they influence their health and well-being. They’ve shared of all sorts of challenges – ranging from circumcision and forced marriages to finding a suitable husband or making sure they look “jolie.” Of the many challenges shared, I found some I could personally relate to. The one I want to share with you today – the one that makes me both smile and, sometimes cringe, and always seems to come up no matter where in the world I am – is our desire, as women, to look a certain way. And sometimes, that starts with hair…

Whether I’m in Michigan, or Boston, or 4000 miles away on the African continent, getting my hair done is always an adventure. I have find someone who can do the style I like, I have to find a day that I can go to do it, I have to explain it in a language that could be understood, and whether in the U.S. or here in Conakry, I have to negotiate the price! The first time I did my hair here in Conkary, I had two women come to the house. We had to wander around my neighborhood, trying to find all the items that we needed, and then I had to just do one of the two styles they were familiar with since that’s what they were skilled at doing. So the second time, I decided to venture out into the neighborhood to see if I might have better luck on my own. I found a little salon – an unassuming little shop not wider than a king-size bed. There were two women in there, watching some dramatic Telenovela. There was a single mirror, no sink, and I was beginning to wonder what this experience would bring.  

“Bonjour,” I said to the women, as we began the customary greetings of asking how each other and our families were doing. “Can you do these styles for my hair?”

“Of course,” they said, and they got right to work.

They took out my braids, a process that would have taken me several hours on my own. They washed my hair, complete with a little scalp massage, using a portable hair washing contraption and heating up a bucket of water. They went searching the neighborhood to buy the necessary hair products to do the style I wanted. And then we sat for the next four hours together, as I learned little bits of the local language of sousou and talked about their lives, while they “tressed” my hair again.

Before: Time to take out the braids...

During: The most ingenious portable hair
washing contraption!

After: Voila!

A few things stuck out to me as I sat in the little wooden chair in this salon. First, I thought how ingenious the women were, learning a trade as a way of making money when times were hard. Sometimes, I feel that as a member of the middle-class and of a Western society, I find it easier to pay for something like getting my hair done (because I can afford to), rather than learning how to do it myself, and I truly valued their spirit and self-reliance. Second, I was amazed how much could be done with so little. My hair could be scrubbed clean without a traditional sink. A work of art (which I believe hair can be) could materialize from a shop the size of some peoples’ closets.

And finally, I was yet again struck by the hardships that some women face here. Both women were quite young, certainly not older than me, and yet they each had a child – one 6 years old, one 8 years old. They were never married, received no help from the children’s fathers, and had to do “everything,” one woman described, to survive when her parents had – for one year – thrown her out of the house after the pregnancy. When I asked if I could buy a snack nearby, they said, “In this neighborhood? No. It’s only expensive restaurants. We haven’t eaten all day.” And so they sat in a salon from morning to night – one of the women had to rush out after 9 pm to give a client a massage (which the salon also offers) – and I’m sure she couldn’t have reached home before 11 pm or later.

Overall, “Get your hair did- Conakry-style” was a success, and I’ve found a hairdresser for my next trip back to Guinea. And I left with yet another reminder that being a woman never seems to be easy. 

Sierra Leone: A Little Self-Care in Freetown

It was approaching Week 6 of my time here in Guinea, and I realized I needed a break. The constant pursuit of research approval, my intense attempt to dive-in to my local setting, and the heavy conversations I was having about life for young women were beginning to affect me. Recognizing that my spirit (and patience) was being worn down, I knew it was time to address the "buzzword" of international development and global health work, the word that too many people say but rarely make the time to do: self-care.

Self-care, as the University of Kentucky defines,  is comprised of " any intentional actions you take to care for your physical, mental and emotional health." It's that thing you know you need to do because you think you're too busy to take time for yourself, to stop, to breathe, to take a break. "Self care isn't just important," Kristin Wong of LifeHacker writes, "It's crucial."

I agree.

My own go-to for self-care - in addition to exercise, a nice glass of wine, and a hearty salad -  has always been a change of scenery. And although I was more than 4000 miles and more than a day of flying away from home, I knew what I had to do. I had to get out of Conakry for the weekend and decided to visit one of my best friends in the neighboring country of Sierra Leone.

Like Guinea, Sierra Leone is a predominantly Muslim West African country. Its population of nearly 6 million is half the size of Guinea's 12 million, and it, furthermore, differs as a former English (rather than French) colony. Sierra Leone's history is distinct in many ways: the country suffered a 12-year civil war that ended in 2002 and was hit hard by the 2014-15 outbreak of Ebola. Getting to Freetown was a bit of an adventure - I found no flights and felt completely unsure about attempting public transportation. Instead, I was driven to the border (or almost to the border, followed by some negotiation with the Guinean military about letting the driver actually take me to the customs/border patrol building), and Jenn met me with her driver there.

Heading out of Guinea.

Some of the bumpy Guinea Roads.

Me and Jenn at the border!

Hittin the streets of Freetown. 

Freetown!

My weekend in Freetown was calm and relaxing, with lazy days, good books, and even better company. We spent time in a cafe (that even had bubble tea and to-go cups!), had dinner and drinks along the beach, and went shopping in the local market, where I tried my hand at negotiating inexpensive goods down even further.

Jenn taking shots of a stylish Sierra Leonean man. 

Lobster dinner with a nice view of the ocean. 

Gina's Cafe!

Yes - Starbucks' style!

Local Bookstore. 

Outside the Market. 

Inside the market. 

It's hard to fully explain what felt different between Conakry and Freetown. Freetown seemed somehow a little more grand and more Western - streets had names (that were known and used), the architecture was distinctly different (somewhat the influence of the British and Nova Scotian influence in the 17th and 18th centuries), the roads in the main town and to the border were paved and smooth (a direct contrast to the very bumpy journey on the Guinea-side of the border). I enjoyed looking at the differences in fashion too; clothes were crafted from the same materials but I saw shorter dresses, styles I would wear in the U.S crafted from local fabrics. Freetown wasn't "better" than Conkary but it was fun to get away and experience something a different and new.

The Fabrics!

The fashion.

Tried on some cute dresses too!

Bumped into a classmate (from Boston) unexpectedly! 

An old wooden board house - one of the cool
architectural features throughout Freetown.

Most importantly for me, my time in Freetown was a complete break and a great reminder of the value of self-care. I was allowed to shut-off my mind, to read for fun, to chat about everything from the type of work I want to do in the future to my desire to dive back into fashion this Fall. It was just the medicine I needed - the perfect weekend of self-care - to feel rejuvenated about the work I'm just starting to do in Guinea.

Forecariah, Guinea, on the way home.

Guinea: It’s all about the tapalapa

Me and Mettre, a craftsman who has his shop
at La voile de marie. Despite that the area has
been largely abandoned since 2008, he maintains
his shop and, when the lone visitor comes by, is
so positive! Of course I had to buy some items
(and didn't even have the heart to bargain).
This is true inspiration. 

Only a few weeks left here in Guinea and I have to say my head, and my heart, are full! Whether chatting with women about the hardships of life here for them, or taking in the breath-taking yet abandoned "la voile de marie" waterfall, I’m really starting to see this country, and parts of the culture, in a very different light.

Me with two of the women of Muffa, a
community-based microfinance group.

La voile de marie (veil of the bride).

This past week started with a meeting at FITIMA, a foundation that supports handicapped children and women, where I learned about some of the problems young women in Guinea face. I, then, spent four days back in Kindia, a tranquil contrast to Conakry life. I had a chance to interact with seven community-based organizations from across the country and learned about the ways in which they’ve been engaging communities to improve utilization of health services across Ebola-affected areas. I also had a chance to visit the health facilities that HC3 is renovating, and was amazed to learn that through strong relationships, oversight, and integrity, they were able to renovate an entire facility for half the cost that a multilateral organization paid to renovate a single room!

Diyare and Cellou, two Amnesty ambassadors, and me.

New friends during the workshop in Kindia.

Health Center before. June 2016.

Health Center After. July 2016.

I’ve learned that language and food are two important keys to any culture, and so I spent time this week trying to engage more with both. Beyond French, I started to learn some basic greetings in Malinke, one of the many local languages, which garnered a lot of laughs from my new friends. I ate rice, feuille de patates (boiled sweet potato leaves that make a spinach-like dish), sauce arachide (peanut sauce), Konkoé (a delicious smoked fish stew), funion (tiny couscous-like dish made of millet, which they served with an okra gumbo I have no intention of eating again)…I went with the flow when we went to a hole-in-the-wall restaurant, where I gorged on pâte de maïs  (thick corn mashed potato-like porridge) and an array of delicious sauces. I savored one of the most delicious salads I’ve had in long time, made from the fresh vegetables of the fertile Kindia region. And I discovered the local bread, tapalapa, a dense, clay oven-baked staple, which has changed my no-carb ways!

The restaurant. Seriously. 

Sofi and Bobo digging in!

Me and Dr. Daffe.

So good!

Yum! (And I didn't get too sick...)

Perhaps the most special moment, one that showed me the potential of Guinea and reminded me that corruption doesn’t have to be part of an “African” culture, was meeting the Mayor of Kindia, a man who spent 14 years abroad before returning to Guinea. He shared with us a strong vision for a different “Africa” – where the people, not foreigners, lead change. 

When I was invited to share remarks, I was amazed that French flew earnestly:

I’m here because I believe in Africa, I shared, My family is Nigerian. There are a lot of problems there. Maybe one day I’ll work there. But for now, I spend a lot of time all over Africa including this country that I don’t yet know because I hope to use the tools that I have to illuminate problems. It’s not me who can change it but I can help bring it to light for leaders, like you, who can lead change.

Of course, I still find the traffic here excruciating; our 2-hour journey took 6 due to poor roads and poorer driving. Of course, I struggle with the juxtaposition of power and poverty; I sipped on four bottles of Moet & Chandon (compliments of a very wealthy friend of a friend) at a club while watching young women look for sugar daddies, a normalized form of income, I’m told. But it’s this sentiment – that I can use my current tool kit and the platform that I have to raise the voices of so many here – that continues to keep me sustained. And in a world that seems to be spewing more hate and destruction than I've experienced in my lifetime, that little sentiment of hope and belief that, however small, I can make a difference is just what I need.