Ethiopia...Food, Food, Food.

Talk to me for five minutes and another love of my life probably becomes clear. Some people eat to live, but then there are a few (myself include) who live to eat! So although my time in Addis Ababa was brief, I think the most appropriate way to end my tales of my time there is by talking about all the delicious things I consumed! Besides being delicious, food is always a fun way for me to learn a little more about any culture.

Beer!

The newest beer to brewed in country.

The first Ethiopian thing I consumed! I love trying beverages from all over the world (I thank my undergraduate course on "Hospitality Beverages" for that) so I tasted a few. I also tried an Ethiopian red wine, which wasn't too shabby. 

Brunch

My first meal in the country at the trendy Kamenge restaurant. If the colors didn’t draw you in, the taste surely did! We had chechebsa, thin Chapati-like bread mixed with oil and spices; dirkosh firfir, dried injeera mixed with stew and jerky-like dried meat; injeera, the traditional Ethiopian break made of teff; and scrambled eggs.

Coffee

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Coffee is important in Ethiopia. And, although I don't drink it regularly, I can affirmatively say that it is good! Well, okay, the traditional coffee was a too strong and bitter for my taste but the machiatto’s (with soy milk) were fantastic! Traditionally-made coffee is always served with a small ceremony, which includes incense and a snack like popcorn. And, if you – like me – thought it was strange that soy milk was available, it’s used as an alternative to Ethiopian’s vegan fasting.

Breakfast – Breakfast for me, started with yummy black tea spiced with cinnamon, cardamom, and some other things. While my friend ate firfir, stew-soaked injeera, for breakfast, I was a big fan of the kincha. It was delicious shredded organic oats (think a hearty, not-to-soft steel-cut oatmeal without all the liquid), cooked with Ethiopian butter.

A side note on butter

Breakfast of "organic" shredded wheat (think steel-cut oatmeal
without the water) - cooked with butter, papaya, and
spiced tea. YUM!

 It is in everything! (Could this be what’s responsible for making Ethiopian women so beautiful?!) Seriously, it is in everything and you can smell it everywhere. For you nerds out there, here’s some fun facts I learned. The butter is made fresh from the cream of a cow and immediately shaken. The put lots of yummy (secret) spices in it, boil it down, and then let it harden again. If you walk around the city and there’s a smell you can’t put your finger on, the spiced butter is probably it. The stronger the smell of butter, the older it is and the less flavorful. (Lidet’s family’s butter was really good!).

Dinner 

My first dinner in Ethiopia was one of the best. We had shiro, a thick chickpea-based sauce, and thick lentil stew with injeera. We also had vegetables and beets for what was a delicious, home-cooked meal!

One night, I got adventurous and tried a three-course Fasting Combo, an eclectic (to me) mixture of starches, veggies, and other stuff. The plate came with macaroni, spaghetti, rice, potato wedges (yes, all of which were served together), two types of firfir, some roasted veggies, and a small salad. I thought it was so strange but actually learned an important cultural lesson. In Ethiopia, food isn’t paired for nutritional balance (e.g., starch + protein + vegetable), it’s paired for variety. Variety, which could be in color or just in the items themselves, signifies wealth and goodness. So, although I only took two bites, it was actually a feast for a Queen.

My last Ethiopian dinner, which we ate a local spot, was also amazing! In fact, it was probably my own complete meal. It had lots of tasty things whose names I can’t remember: shiro, lamb prepared in curry and red stew, ground beef in tomato stew with crumbled cheese, firfir, tibs, or little bits of meat, and lots of other delicious bites! I ate SO much, and it was worth it!

Raw Meat

 So, definitely didn’t try this one, but I’d never heard of the consumption of 1-inch chunks of raw red meat! Apparently, it happens, but I went for cakes instead.

Other Snacks

I didn’t get the impression that much snacking happens, but I brought my American spirit (and appetite) with me! I tried lentil samosas from my friend’s favorite street vendor, an incredible concoction of pineapple/guava/avocado juice, and different types of cakes and tarts. Yum!

So, there you have it - the little food adventures I sneaked into my trip (and the informal lessons that came along with it).

See you next time as a DIVA in...Burundi!

Ethiopia...The First Days of 2015

Happy New Year’s! It’s hard to believe another year’s cycle has passed. This time last year, I was watching Michigan State dominate in college football at the Rose Powl in sunny Pasedana, California. The year before? I was with my family at a resort in Ohio, pool-side in a simulated 75 degree climate. This year? I was jet-lagged (among other things) but was in a completely new and unfamiliar culture!

Oh look - New York in Addis! 

My day stated at 1 PM with a yummy Ethiopian breakfast kincha, hearty (and organic) oats flavored with spices and the secret ingredient in the best Ethiopian dishes: butter. Lidet and I ran some errands, where I had my first opportunity to experience Ethiopia’s version of rundown van-like “taxis,” which carried anywhere between 10 (legally) and 15 (illegally) passengers and helped us get all around the city including Mexico (the “times square” of Addis). While the pollution and dust were noticeable as we walked, I couldn’t help but think that it wasn’t as bad as other countries I’d visited and that there was something notable about the city’s state of development. Lidet explained that the pollution was actually considered bad to them, and that the construction happening on every corner of the city (literally) was a recent phenomenon related to the country’s development plan. Among the major projects – a dam at the head of the Nile River (who knew Ethiopia was completely landlocked!) and an intercity rail system!

Tucked away in the back of the "taxi"

Mexico Square: the "Times Square" of Addis.

A view of Mexico Square, where there's currently an expo.

Construction everywhere!

The new rail system!

Lidet and I went to TA MA CO, one of the first coffee shops in the country, and I a delicious machhiato with…soy milk (which was surprisingly, to me, available at several places). We went to Lidet’s favorite juice joint – literally the thickest juice ever – for an avocado, pineapple, and guava juice blend. We looked at the gardens and local artist gallery at the Alliance Francaise. We ate lentil samosas from a street food stand. The night ended with some relaxed socializing, starting with a meet-up at a café and later live Ethiopian jazz and classics at Mama’s Kitchen.

Soy machiatto! Yum!

A local memorial museum commemorating a past youth movement.

Look at that juice!!

Jazz night! 

The next day, my last in the city, was quite memorable. After a six-hour ordeal with Ethiopian Airlines, I got my luggage and the evening could finally start! I got my last fix of injera and tasted some of the most delicious pastries at Lidet’s friend’s cake shop. We drove around the city, strolled a lively neighborhood home to the few remaining old Ethiopian houses and with shiny displays of silver and gold EVERYWHERE! We went for my last soy machiatto at the Ethiopian version of “Starbucks.” And then, that night we danced, danced, danced!

Get excited!

It's like I've know Nabi (Lidet's friend) all my life!

After only a few days, leaving Ethiopia felt like leaving home! I had such an incredible experience – led by an amazing host and her loving friends and family. I ate my way through the city (more on this coming soon!), and learned about a unique African country, different from any other I’ve been to so far. All in all, a FABULOUS way to start what promises to be the best year yet! 

Ethiopia and I are clearly not on the same calendar...

Ethiopia...New Year's Eve (Part 2)

I LOVE holidays - Thanksgiving, Christmas, my birthday... they're all a big deal! New Year's Eve, for me, was no different so I decided to roll into the new year visiting a country I haven't spent time in yet - Ethiopia: an East African country with one of the most unique histories (and with exactly 1 person around that I knew).

I should preface my whirlwind trip by saying that two days before leaving, I learned two things:

1. That Ethiopia is on a completely different calendar, with 13 months in a year, Christmas Day the week after our New Year's, and - of course - there New Year's celebration was a few months ago. 
2. That aside from the two people I know who live there (one of whom was out of the country during the time of my visit), I know very little about this country! 

That said, my time in Ethiopia was a whirlwind but the best of its kind! 

Following my tumultuous luggage-less start, the day picked up! My friend and host extraordinaire, Lidet, her friend, and I went to a trendy restaurant in Bole called Katenga, where we had an Ethiopian brunch and my first traditional Ethiopian coffee. . 

My first taste of traditional Ethiopian coffee, served with the
"mystic" incense.  

I even brushed shoulders with some local celebs including the star of Ethiopia's only soap opera. We, then attempted to do some clothing shopping, and although I left with some undergarments, I did see the most beautiful traditional dress that I'm still thinking about. It was a white strappless A-line, made of handwoven cotton with colorful hand-stitched embroidery including the traditional Ethiopian cross... (I describe it here because at its price of a cool $150, I didn't bother to actually enter into the store).

Trying to shop around town. 

Next time I go back, I'll probably buy "my
dress" (on the right). 

We spent the evening at Jazzamba, listening to famed Ethiopian jazz musicians including Michael Belayneh and then to a small bar (with draft beer!) for the NYE countdown, an experience that actually reminded me of daily trip to Harry's Bar while I was in Malawi. The night then took us to a beautifully decorated lounge that could rival any I've been to in Boston (minus the minute where the power went out!), before eating a late 5 AM sack at a local cafe.

Lidet heating up dinner before the night starts!

Live musical performance at Jazzamba
(we clearly didn't have front-row seats)...

3...2...1...Happy New Year! 

Even though it was the middle of 2007 in Ethiopia, it was the perfect start to 2015 for me! 

Ethiopia...on New Year's Eve...with No Luggage...

Over the last 10 years, I can't remember a trip without some sort of drama. Whether getting stuck in a game park in Malawi...or almost dying in a guided tour van in Kenya...or traveling on a rickety ferry with only $100 for a week in a not-so-safe part of Senegal...or showing up to the airport a day late in London...There's never been a dull moment in my world travels. The last day of 2014 was no exception!

The trip started with an early 3 AM ride to the airport for my 6 AM flight. I was early (yes -early!) and had planned to check-in and finish grading. Little did I know that the Air Canada ticket counter doesn't open until 5 AM! I awkwardly sat on my suitcase trying to grade until my computer died...

"But," I told myself, "Stay strong! In 24 hours, I'll be taking in the sites of Addis Ababa and forgetting all about this mishap."

Well, that was somewhat true. Two flights and 27 hours later, I was taking in the sites of the Addis Ababa...Airport - from the Ebola check points to the disorganized Visa line to the luggage carousel where - wait for it - my luggage was no where to be found!

(As an aside, I was SO proud of my packing for this trip. I had one sublimely-packed carry on with my computer, electronics, and a single change of clothes. And, despite my shoe-loving ways, I only checked in one suitcase with my clothes and shoes, gifts for my friend, and New Year's Eve paraphernalia. One single suitcase, and it didn't even make it).

Last minute purchase to complete my packing!

After an emotional three hours of being sent from person to person, we finally located my luggage...in Toronto! I'll fast forward through the details but there may or may not have bee a mini breakdown, followed by an intense lecture from my end. I was told my luggage would hopefully make it a couple of days later (the night before my departure). The airline also gave me a small stipend for incidentals.

As the supervisor passed me on to her subordinate, who passed me on to one of the airport workers to take me to get my stipend, I couldn't think how ridiculous Day 1 had become. My non-English speaking companion managed to communicate to me that I looked tired ("Um, no, I'm angry," I tried to explain, to no avail), and then he proceeded to ask me to share my stipend with him. All I could think was, "Really? You want a thank you for your airline's mishap?"  

Oddly enough, after trying to explain that I needed the money for some clothes (I was met with a blank face), I gave up and gave him 50 birr, the equivalent of $2.5. Because the fact is that I realized I was so blessed. I was fortunate to have had a suitcase full of things that could even get lost. I was fortunate that I had a friend who waited nearly four hours for me to come out of the airport, since I didn't have a phone to call her. And although I felt disgusting wearing the same outfit in the 28+ hours that had passed, I was fortunate that I had an extra outfit to wear for my big New Year's Eve out.

"African continent, how I'd almost forgotten you,"  I thought.

Its response? "WELCOME BACK!"

First thing I bought with my stipend.

Michigan for Christmas: Family, Friends, and Fun with Food

I had an awesome semester but you know what made it even better - my time visiting family back home in Michigan. The week of Christmas was exactly what I needed and the kind of family time that always makes we want to come home. 

On Christmas Eve, we spent most of the day shopping (with the rest of the neighboring city apparently - it was packed!). My brothers and I made Christmas cookies "for Santa" too. 

 Christmas Day, I cooked up a storm! We had pot roast, corn casserole, sweet potato cobbler, spinach with caramelized onions and crayfish, mulled apple cider, pigs in a blanket, and for dessert -  puppy chow and homemade sugar free apple pie! We watched a marathon of some of the cheesiest movies Netflix had to offer. And, compliments of Santa (i.e., me!), we got a new W (on which I played Just Dance repeatedly). I even had a chance to catch up with a couple of childhood friends. 

Our Christmas miracle: snow on Christmas Day!

The day before I left was among the highlights of my time home. My final culinary endeavor? Cooking octopus! It was the first time my mom and I had ever cooked it ourselves but my memory of the grilled octopus I had beachside in Cabo last summer made it worth it. So, from my family to yours, here's a new holiday favorite! 

Stewed Octopus au Vin Blanc 

Step 1: Get suckered into buying a whole octopus from an expensive market (check!). Make sure they clean the octopus and take out the ink for you!

Step 2: Fill a large pot 3/4 of the way with water and bring to a rolling boil. According to YouTube, you should also put a wine cork in the pot.

Step 3: Pick up the raw octopus. (This might be the hardest part - eew!). 

Step 4: Inside out its head (double eew!) and dip the creature into the boiling water for three seconds and remove...

then again...

and again... 

Be sure to call your family over to see how its legs continue to curl!

Step 5: Put the whole octopus into the boiling water and boil for 10 minutes or so. 

Step 6: While that's boiling, cut the octopus into chunks. 

Chop an onion and sautée in a large pan with olive oil. Then add the octopus into the pan, and sautée with some garlic. 

Add diced tomatoes and some spices (cumin, chili, red pepper flakes), and sautée a little longer. 

At this point, you should be smelling something really yummy!

Step 7: Then, the best part of the recipe - add white wine. I started with a half bottle of lightly oaked Michigan chardonnay. Boil out the alcohol (about 4 minutes) and simmer. 

Step 8: The rest of the process is really an art more than a science. We added water, more garlic, and most of the remaining wine (burning out the alcohol each time). 

I also sauteed some scallops and threw them in the pan.

Step 9: Serve with linguine, french break, or Christmas leftovers (or all of the above); pour yourself a glass of the remaining wine, and enjoy! 

Mmm mmmm good! Happy Holidays!