Current location: Boston, MA.
Occupation: Student (yes, again), pursuing a doctorate in Global Health and consulting on the side
Goal: To strengthen cultural competence in global health programming and policy for children, adolescent, and youth issues, particularly in sub-Saharan Africa


Wednesday, July 29, 2015

Jamaica (Kingston and Beyond): No problems, mon!


After my journey of family time, self-discovery, and (of course) good food, I realized the summer was only just beginning. Among the list of things I can't live without - which ranges from family and friends to the Big 10 conference - was smiling, laughter, sunshine, and water. So what better way to indulge a little than with a...trip to Jamaica!

Kingston, Jamaica
Founded in 1962, Kingston is the capital of Jamaica, and its largest city. Contrary to my last trip here off some of the Island's more popular coasts, Kingston boasts both water and mountains. It's a business epicenter with vibrant day- and night-life, resembling a real city more than a resort. I wanted to compliment my past trips here - once as a cruise stop and once at an all-inclusive - with a more authentic island experience. So I packed my bags and brought my work with me for a whirlwind trip to visit a friend in Kingston.

Home sweet home. 
The trip started with a visit to the famous Devon House, a former great house and home to some of the Carribbean's best ice cream (I'm told). Then, we took a quick detour to Montego Bay for Reggae Sumfest 2015. I couldn't help but splurge for a night at an all-inclusive, where I soaked in a lot of sun by the pool and beach.

After our all-nigher at Sumfest. Still awake! 
The view from the room!
Montego Bay
One of the highlights of the all-inclusive? The musical interludes and commentary by pianist Mr. Frank S.. He played some old classics (and quite a few hits by Celine Dion) while sharing stories of his life as a graduate of the music program at Western Michigan University and as a teacher in Oxford, England before retiring home to Jamaica.

Musician Frank S.: he was so proud of Stefan and I on all of
our academic accomplishments! 
As part of experiencing real life in Jamaica, I went with my hosts to church one Sunday.  My "patwa" (Jamaica's widely-spoken broken English) was sadly underdeveloped, so although I couldn't understand the sermon, the music made me feel right at home! I also brought over dozens of pencils and erasers to give to the church's inner-city summer camp, so it was great to see what the donations would support.

The church crowd
One of the highlights of the service? The fashion hats worn
by most women. 
My friend Stefan's mom and neighbor,
who made my experience great! 
I joined Stefan, friends, and family for a delicious Sunday meal including local dishes like sweet potatoes and "rice and peas," and after an afternoon of laughter, watched "The Godfather" for the first time.

Sunday dinner
And, I learned that although Kingston isn't known for its swimming beaches, there are some beautiful ones just down the road.

I love the beach! 

Stefan and I


Catching up on some reading.
During our beach day, I tried "fish fry," one of the local delicacies, which involves choosing your seafood and having it prepared right in front of you. I was really excited to have freshly caught lobster with "festival," a slightly sweet fried dough, and "bammy," fried cassava cakes.

Choosing the perfect fish.
Those are big ones! 
Freshly-caught lobster.
Final product: Garlic lobster (front), fried fish, festival (back left),
bammy (back right), and, of course, Jamaica's famous Red Stripe. 
During my trip, I had a chance to add (and then complete) items to my "bucket list" that had never crossed my mind. Case and point: my two attempts at fencing, as Jamaica works to build a national team. I think I'll just stick to my day job....

Break time during my second fencing practice.
This was the before picture. I lost against
Stefan (who, in my defense, is a collegiate fencer). 
Me in some of the gear. 
We took another mini-excursion to Mandeville, capital of the parish of Manchester. There, I enjoyed living in the lap of luxury for a night and tasting some locally-made honey wine and honey. Yum!!

Sunset on the journey. 
Where all the wine and honey magic happens! 
Sorrel-flavored honey wine. 
My personal favorite: tamarind-flavored honey. 
We also took a day trip to the beautiful YS Falls, where we did a little climbing and swimming in the cold, fresh (and did I mention cold?) waterfalls.

Passing through a bamboo tunnel on the way. 

YS Falls.
Some of the views of Jamaica you don't often see. 

We had a chance to visit a local "basic school," a government-supported pre-school, that Stefan's friends were in the process of renovating as their summer project.



And we (well, Stefan) adopted a little puppy, making me a proud godmother!

Stefan packing the puppy into the car for the journey home.

We named him Salt! 
We took a long drive way up the Blue Mountains, where some of the Caribbean's finest coffee comes from, enjoying views of Kingston and the mountains.


Learning how to walk on water...
...and dance...
Enjoy drinks and the view...
...at Strawberry Hill, a premiere (and top dollar) resort. 
The amazing sunset. 
And one of the best views of the city from the mountain.


As my time in Jamaica was winding down, we still managed to fit in a few more activities. From a visit to the famous Bob Marley museum...


The view from the window where Bob Marley was shot
(but still lived). 

...to a shopping trip "downtown" in the local market places and "uptown" at the latest "it" shoe store...

Outside of the downtown market. 
On a hunt to find some good bargains. 
Pair of shoes #1

The ultra-trendy pair of shoes #2
...to game night, a family birthday gathering, and a pretty unreal beach party at a sandbar in the middle of the ocean (yes, it's about as fabulous as it sounds)...
The Port
Approaching the sandbar after 20 minutes.
On the journey over.
A crazy dance party and bar in the middle of the ocean!
(And it wasn't even "packed.")
On the journey back to shore.
...my trip was full of adventure.

And, of course, I have to tell you all about the delicious goodies I ate! Whether trying "conch," the local staple "ackee and saltfish," the special occasion "goat head soup," and even sushi (in Jamaica - it's a thing!), my taste buds enjoyed indulging a little.

Left to right: Mashed sweet potatoes (with mayo, or something creamy),
conch balls, polenta, and salad! 
Ackee (looks like egg but it's a fruit) with
salt fish (salted cod), and fried bread fruit.
A common breakfast dish. 
Homemade goat head soup, usually reserved for funerals.
Made with a goat's head, tripe, potato, and some other stuff.
Half way done!
Sushi! This restaurant even had riceless sushi - best thing ever. 
Some of the other local wines I tasted. 
I even had the pleasure of learning the "Jamaican way" of eating one of many varieties of mangoes that was always available.

Fork and knife? Or all hands on deck?

Phrases like "irie" and "way up" - all the cool Patwa words that describe the bouyant flavor of the island - cannot even begin to describe the fun this much-needed trip provided. And would you believe that I got a lot of work done too? Clearly I'll have to go back...

Wednesday, July 22, 2015

Mo'Bay, Jamaica: Sumfest 2015


Three years ago, I remember writing about the ultimate "African experience:" a trip to Malawi's Lake of Stars (as well as a few misfortunes) with a pretty fabulous group of fellow global health and development nuts. Well, sadly, those days are gone. We're all scattered: some with families, some engaged, and some still venturing all over.

So imagine my delight when a little piece of that "African experience" made its way with me to Montego Bay, Jamaica for Reggae Sumfest 2015: the ultimate reggae and international music experience.

My fun-filled weekend in Montego Bay (known on the island as "Mo'Bay") started with a fun car-ride down with my friend Stefan and a few of his friends from Kenya. A few hours (and a few Red Stripes later), we made it to one of my favorite parts of Jamaica.

The view from where we stayed.
What a view! 
Official sponsor of Sumfest
After a short walk and a quick dinner of pumpkin soup, we headed off to the ultimate Reggae festival. In its 23rd year, Sumfest has become recognized for "Promoting music, the universal force." Though we initially thought it would be a few hours of music and dancing, we soon learned we were in for an all-night (and morning) extravaganza.

The night for us started around 9:30 pm, when we arrived at to start our night in the V.I.P. section for the festival's night of Dancehall music, a genre created and popularized in Jamaican as a spin-off from Reggae. The first couple of hours had some lesser known performers, but with their crazy costumes, hairstyles, and dance moves, it made for a good start to the night.

One of the early night, unknown performers. 
Ishawna in her barely-there giddup... 
Ding Dong came off the stage and onto the fence right in
front of us!

I had listened to a few Dancehall songs in advance, so I was really excited when some crowd favorites sung songs I could hum along too!


Dexta Daps singing "7eleven"
I think this was Konshens. 
Gully Bop, a crowd favorite known for his personal journey
from rags to riches
Perhaps one of the highlights of Dancehall night is the crazy, booty-shaking dancing moves that, frankly, seem unnatural! Among the night's craziest dance performances: Spice.

Climbing up a pole to "whine"
After five or six hours of music, food, and drinks, I was admittedly feeling a little tired. But we were still waiting for some of the big headliners, so we kept going!

Stefan and I at at 3 AM? 4 AM? I lost track...
International superstar I-Octane, singing crowd favorites
like "Wine and Jiggle" and "Love di vibes" and "Happy Time."
A LOT of people made it out for the night! 
Well, at least some of us kept going...

Guess our friends needed a nap.
As the sun started to rise (and our energy started to dwindle), some of the biggest performers came out and got us on our feet.
Capleton performs with tons of energy as the sun starts to come up. 

The performer I'd been waiting all night (and morning): Lady Saw - historic "deejay" (aka: rapper), the Queen of Dancehall, and the first woman to close Sumfest since the festival started in 1993. 


Known for decades of top performances, including some deep songs  (like "Infertility") and raunchier Dancehall favorites (my choice: "Heels On"), Lady Saw came out of retirement (again) to shake up the crowd and bring some controversy to the night.

I loved that she took off her wig during the performance to allow her "natural self" to shine but definitely felt uncomfortable with her display of the aggressive (and violent) behavior she's become known for. 

Trying to get Lady Saw's autograph.
The police wanted autographs too!
After hours of non-stop music, the crowd of hundreds (or thousands?) finally started to clear out.
What a mess! 
I'd say that for more than 9 hours of singing and dancing, we still looked pretty good!

Me and Stefan
After the excitement and energy of the Dancehall night performances, we decided not to attend the International Night performances featuring global stars like Common and Jennifer Hudson. I wanted to keep the experience "strictly Jamaican" and opted to spend the rest of the weekend laying by the beach.


What a fun way to sneak in a summer holiday at Sumfest 2015!